I have been thinking about kitchens a lot lately. Maybe because mine is in constant use whether for regular meal preparation, putting away groceries, feeding the dogs, feeding the cat, short order cooking or the ever present getting Baby R to get out of the refrigerator.
My sister runs a retro food blog http://www.retro-food.com. And when she was designing the blog she asked me for a description of our great grandmother’s kitchen. Our great grandmother, N, lived in a huge Georgian style house in Mobile Alabama. What I wouldn’t give to have that house now! Not in Mobile. But magically transported here.
Nonetheless, N’s kitchen was huge by today’s standards. But amazingly it had no counters or cabinets. It had a metal topped work table in the corner where stood the ever faithful Mix Master standing mixer. There was a large Formica (red) topped table with six chairs in the middle of the room. Under the window was a gas stove. The top of the tall casement style window had a huge industrial strength fan. No hood, no microwave, no food processor. A big white refrigerator stood in the corner to the left of the stove.
The sink was in a cabinet type stand with the sides of the sink being the same porcelain coated cast iron as the sink. The sides were slanted toward the sink so everything drained in to the sink. There was no dishwasher (unless you count me and Pearlie Mae) or garbage disposal. The small hanging cabinet over the sink was for drinking glasses and the there was a drawer for everyday flatware and a under the sink cabinet with cleaners etc.
Everyday dishes (and cookies and gum) were kept in a free standing old fashioned pie safe. Mixing bowls and extra platters were on the bottom shelves. Bread, crackers and coffee cups were on the top shelf.
N saved everything. Plastic bread wrappers, aluminum foil, paper bags, string, rubber bands and jars. There was a small multiple hook wall rack next to the sink - for dish towels but it always had a bread wrapper or washed aluminum foil hanging there to dry.
All the food was kept in one of two pantries. One was in the corner under the stairs with a full length red gingham curtain for a door. In there you could find spices, tonics, baking chocolate, flour, sugar, lard, oil, shortening and flavorings. The other was in the opposite corner and was an actual room with a window that served as a pantry and laundry room. In there you could find store bought canned goods and a plethora of homemade jarred canned goods. Fig preserves from the tree in the back yard, Lady Baltimore Relish, pickles, chutneys, tomatoes, green tomato relish and different kinds of berried jellies and preserves.
N’s kitchen had no granite, travertine, stainless appliances, fancy lighting, trash compactor, espresso machine, ice makers (just aluminum ice trays with the lever to you had to pull to crack the ice), bottled, filtered chilled water dispenser And no designer cabinets.
Everything served at her table whether breakfast or supper in the kitchen or dinner in the large dining room was homemade. No microwave popcorn or pizza, no store prepared entree, no instant oatmeal, no instant tea (sacrilege in the South) no lemonade mix and certainly no refrigerator pie crusts or cake mixes. Everything was made from fresh ingredients and everything took time.
She baked cakes every Monday. OMG did she bake the most marvelous cakes. She would begin creaming the butter and sugar the night before letting the Mix Master run on its lowest speed all night. She made mayonnaise as needed again letting the oil and eggs emulsify overnight in the work horse Mix Master.
Her food was wonderful. It wasn’t Cordon Bleu (Although her Charlotte Russe might qualify) but it was certainly wonderful home cooking. Her Black Fruitcake (don’t wrinkle your nose and say yuck) was made this time of year, stored in a dark sideboard wrapped in cheesecloth and “basted” with bourbon every week until the Holidays. Even the most fruitcake avoiding person would like this.
N taught me to love food. Not just eating but the menu planning, the preparing, the enjoyment of watching someone enjoy a meal you have prepared and the insistence that no one ever leave your table hungry.
Maybe that is why my kids have always eaten dinner at the table. Or the most important discussions in the world happen in the kitchen. Or the dining room table is the spot of most family meetings. Or why I don’t have a food processor. To this day I use a spatula from N’s kitchen along with a machete she had for cutting rhubarb and watermelon down to size. I have her hand cranked eat beater hanging on my wall and I can whisk custard with the best of them. And yes I have Mix Master too.
Maybe we don’t need two hundred feet of granite countertops or cherry cabinets. Maybe we just need the love of providing our families with good food. Fresh, healthy, homemade.